Temples, Trains and Mausoleums

I have had a great few days, and now I am in Agra, the biggest tourist spot in India thanks to the Taj Mahal. It is great to see some other travelers as I was the only one in Vrindavan. My hotel has a great rooftop restaurant where I met a few other lone travelers from various places, Belgium, Germany, USA, and France. It has been fun hanging out with everyone on the rooftop over looking the Taj the last two evenings and hearing everyone's stories. All really interesting people. I checked out the Taj this morning around 6 am with my new German friend Christian. We beat the tourist traffic and walked right in without waiting. Tickets were expensive though, but I could not travel through India without stopping at this famous site. It did not disappoint. Really amazing to see it close up. It is really a mesmerizing structure. After lunch we got a driver to take us around to some otherAgra sites including Agra Fort, the Baby Taj, which is pretty amazing in it's own right, and another tomb of a Persian prime minister I believe. I am really impressed with the Moghals and their building skills. All of the sites still hold up today and are incredible feats. We also traveled across the Yamuna river to see the Taj from another viewpoint which was great. Good day of site seeing and we traversed a lot of ground. I am really fortunate to have met a few people from around the globe, and had a lot of great conversations throughout the day. We are all going our separate ways tomorrow but exchanged info and will hopefully be in touch. Agra was a nice town and I am really glad I made the trip. But there is still a lot more to cover. 

Before arriving in Agra I spent a day in Vrindavan, a holy town on the banks of the Yamuna River believed to be the boyhood home of Lord Krishna. So glad I made the trip. At first I felt a little out of place as I arrived. I told the rickshaw driver to take me to Radha Raman Temple, where I had heard good things, but he ended up taken me to the more famous, Iskon Temple, which is run be the society for Krishna consciousness, or the Hare Krishnas. After arguing with the driver for a few, I decided I might as well check it out before moving on, so I went inside. It was quite beautiful, and very lively. Drums and music and dancing were going on inside and lots of people where there. A lot of westerners living there who have moved to India to join the Hare Krishnas, so quite an interesting scene. When I arrived someone in orange robes welcomed me and said that I had come to the holiest place in India. As I moved on to Radha Raman, I soon found out that this was indeed true for many of the people living there. The temple was closed when I got there. It closes from 12 to 5 or so, as the gods are resting during that time. So I wondered around trying to find the guesthouse that I heard about. Streets were pretty deserted and only a few people out and about, doing chores it looked like. No one payed very much attention to me at first. I asked a few people who did not speak English wher the guesthouse was and they all pointed in different directions. I was getting a little frustrated but knew I would find something eventually. The town is quite old, how knows just how old some of these temples are, and it was a really interesting place to show up in. Finally I found a guesthouse, and after finding teh owner of the place, he showed me to a room without really saying anything. I was just thankful to have found shelter for the night and place to unload my stuff. It was rather nice and had a big bed and even AC. I was really happy to find such a place. I rested for a bit and another guy spoke top me awkwardly in English making sure I liked the room and was very kind. After I caught my breath I went out exploring and starting walking towards the old river. The temples on the river are largely abandoned but there are still many people about them and by the banks. One really beautiful temple with colorful artwork caught my eye and I sat by it. Then a few teenagers on bikes rolled by and said hello. Before I knew it they were taking me around on the back of one of their bikes showing me all the temples. I never would have had a chance to see some of those places if not for them. It was a little uncomfortable on the back of the bike though and they spoke minimal English. So after I while I was ready to be on my own again. Later that evening I headed to Radha Raman. Where I had heard there was music in the evenings. I got there around 530 and there were only a few people sitting around the temple, which was pretty small. A yellow curtain had been pulled to cover the display of Krishna at the forefront of the temple. It seemed like people did not really mind me being there. Pretty soon, more and more people came in and then incense was lit and the curtain was drawn, everyone stood up and hurried over to Krishna. Some placed themselves on the ground with their entire body to pay tribute. Others put their hands in the air. I just stood silently gazing. Then an amazing thing happened. Everyone stared singing in unison. I have no idea what they were singing, but this was the evening darshan and was beautiful. The sound of these voices in chorus was so amazing to me, I felt this incredible rush. I could not help it and felt tears welling up in my eyes. I can't explain it it was just so powerful and beautiful. The same thing happened a few hours later when more singing occurred. I am not ashamed to say it, I was really moved. Everything in Hindu worship has to do with energy. Nothing is important without energy, and that night there was an amazing energy in that place, and maybe this is why it is still considered a holy holy place. The murti itself (display of the God) was small but very beautiful. Krishna was black and his legs were crossed has he held the flute. Amazing to see, so different than anything in the west. I kept thinking wow this is authentic as it gets. I was sitting in this Hindu Temple watching this incredible display of devotion. Women of all ages dressed in their colorful saris and men of all walks of life, some in rags, some holy men with shaved heads, and some dressed a little more modern. All there for the same purpose. As the night progressed things just got more interesting. A man pulled out a harmonium and started playing and singing. Soon the master musician arrived and played harmonium and sang. He was obviously well versed in Indian musical tradition and totally blew my mind. I was sitting right next to the musicians. A tabla player joined in and was a great player as well. There were 7 or 8 people gathered around in this section of the temple and the musicians would play one raga and then drift right onto another, The music never lagged, it was just continuous movement. I had never heard harmonium or a vocalist in a live setting before and this was quite a first time experience. I could not have asked for more. The playing was superb. A few hours went by and I was rooted to the spot, every melody was just searing my insides as I listened. Finally the music ended and everyone got up to leave. I made eye contact with the vocalist and gave a gesture of appreciation with my hands. It seemed like a lifetime had went by but it really was only 3 hours or so. As we walked out the singer came over to me and we talked a bit. I said I loved Indian music and was so happy to have heard him play.  He took me by the hand and we walked a bit and he said if I was every back in Vrindavan we would sit together. I was so thankful for his warmth and kindness. 

gate to Radha Raman

I decided to wake up early the next morning and check out the early morning rituals. Around 530 I headed down to the river again and felt like I was transported into a far off time in the past. Many holy men in rags chanting and sitting with their bowls to receive offerings. On the ghats by the river, there were boats that were taking people over to the other side to bathe. I saw a man dunking his whole body in to the river a number of times and a boy gave me a little bowl shaped leaf filled with flowers and lit with incense. I sent it into the river and watched it float downstream. A woman stopped me and put red paint on my forehead in a straight line with her hands. Then yellow paint on my neck. She expected rupees of course which I forked up. Then I sat on a huge platform overlooking the Yamuna for a bit. Really incredible place at that time of day. Some kids came over and kept asking for rupees and would not leave me alone which was a buzz kill, it got really annoying after a while. After this I went in one of the temples around the river for a small time, then went back and took a nap in my room. By the way, I could not find any reliable sources of food in the area I was staying in so I thought it better not to eat. I just had some snacks that I had brought from home and water. I figured since I was in  holy place, I would fast a bit and avoid getting sick. There were a lot of really dirty looking places selling all kinds of things, water bottles that were filled with unclean water, and so on. Did not trust it. I went back to Iskon the next day after paying the guesthouse and thanking them. Finally found a meal at a big upscalish hotel in that area which was great. Then headed to Agra by train. The trains are really cool, the windows are opened and you get a great breeze and view of the Indian country. people live everywhere along the tracks, some in some really interestingly made shelters. I started feeling pity and sadness for the first time here at the train station, seeing how poor some of the people are. One person could not walk and just hobbled around on the ground using his hands. It was so sad, I gave him two bananas, and watched as another man carried him across the tracks to the other side. There are also lots of street children who are dirty as hell and beg for money. My heart felt heavy for them. It is really difficult and it is everywhere. India is right in your face. I saw a little girl with deep eyes like I have never seen before. She looked like she had seen too much, and was far older than her age. I couldn't stop looking at her eyes. Something was beautiful about her though. 

view from hotel

Vrindavan was an awesome stop, and a real look into Indian religious life. People would look at me as I passed and say hare Krishna, their devotion was amazing, even though they have so little. Tomorow I go to Orccha to stay with an Indian family. Have no idea what it will be like but am very excited. Another unforgettable experience awaits. Traveling is eye opening and such a thrill. I doubt I will have internet in this little town but will get back as soon as I can.