Relaxing in Orchha

Hello everyone. It has been a few days, but since my last post I have been enjoying my time in Orchha. Really a beautiful place and quiet and relaxing. It is really nice to unwind for a bit after rushing around so much the lat two weeks. I have been doing some pretty heavy traveling from place to place, so the rest is much needed. I am currently staying with an Indian family in a little area called Ganj, about 15 minutes walk from the town of Orchha, which is pretty small in itself. You cannot get lost here, not like Delhi or even Vrindavan. There are some pretty amazing ruins here from a 17th century Hindu empire. I have spent the last 3 days exploring these sites, which are everywhere. It takes some time to see everything. Yesterday was exhausting as I did most of the main sites. There are two huge palaces with really interesting wall paintings, and a few temples and other buildings. Today I took it pretty easy and did not get into town until after two, and just walked around some ruins for an hour and a half or so. But back to the family I am staying with. The couple, Siran and Kiran are extremely nice and very hospitable. They have two daughters, Miri and Kushri, 8 and 4, who are really delightful, and friendly. The family speaks very little english but I am getting by ok. My room is modest, but just what I need. There is no running water, but Siran makes sure there is always a bucket to draw from, the well is nearby. I have not showered much, as it is a challenge to shower out of a bucket. Try it sometime. My room is off on it's own and was constructed to house travelers like myself, but their living space is just to the left of where I am. They have two very small rooms, no doors, concrete floors. There is no real furniture. No refrigerator, beds or sink, although I have one. It is a real experience seeing their living arrangements. They are poor but seem like they do not desire anything more. They cook me meals, chai for breakfast and some kind of mush for lack of a better term. Lunch is always the same as dinner. Chapati or puti bread with vegetables and potatoes. Very simple and not much, but I am content. We eat on the floor and my hosts always have much less than me, maybe even nothing at all or just bread. They have one small burner on the ground to cook with and a big gas canister for fuel. I have thought a lot since I have been here. Of course I am appreciative of their efforts but almost feel guilty living the comparatively lavish lifestyle that I do. It makes me sad to see how little they have, but I am amazed at their graciousness and there is no shortage of love here. They smile all of the time, and do not complain as far as I can see. But it really makes you ponder your own life situation. Why should I be so lucky to live in excess? To have so many comforts at my disposal, to never have a shortage of anything. To sleep in a comfortable bed and live in a house that is 100 times bigger than theirs and has all the amenities that I could ever want. I did not ask for this, and they did not ask for what they have. Yet this is how it is, and there is no explanation. Our places could just as well be reversed. I just keep wondering why.

The other night I went to the Sheesh Mahal hotel, which is built into one of the old palaces. I heard their was good food as well as music. But being in there, this place was the opposite of where I was staying. Dressed up waiters, and marble floor, and tables decorated nicely, I almost felt ashamed living it up while my family was back eating on concrete floors. It is just not easy to reconcile it all. All that aside, I am really enjoying living with them. I do not mind the simple living, I am totally content and even humbled. The food is pretty good although simple. The family is so nice and always welcomes me to sit with them, and they try to talk in english to the best of their ability. Siran even took me and two Australians that I met to the River Betwa to swim the other day. It was really nice. Clean, warm water and really quite relaxing.
Good having some companions as well, and we talked a lot about or travels and experiences. I have really enjoyed this place. Beautiful green scenery and warm smiles. I have noticed people here are incredibly friendly and welcoming, sometimes to the point where it gets annoying if you would just like to be on your own. But usually it is nice saying hello to people. Almost everyone you pass by says hello and wants to know where you are from. I do not think the same the same is true in America, or even in the West in general. Foreigners most often are ignored, and seldom welcomed. An Indian in America would not receive the same warmth and hospitality that I have received here. One would feel very much alone I think, where as here, you cannot be alone even if you try. It is just an interesting phenomenon. Is it that we fear the other in our country or would we just rather not take the time to be welcoming? Or maybe the foreigner is harder to spot in America. Which ever it is, I think we are generally just not as friendly and accommodating. I have gotten so many smiles, especially from children, and invites to have chai or to sit and talk, or free rides on motorcycles, it's really amazing to me that people could be so quick to help me and to hear my story. Another thing that is refreshing is the lack of technology. I remember being really tired of seeing people back home walking through the streets with their head down looking at their iphones. I just wanted to say "hey look around there is a whole world around you, why are you trapped in this little one?" But you do not see that here at all. People have phones but are not enamored by them. Internet access is minimal. TV's are hard to come by where I am. Miri loves playing games on my ipod though and I spent an hour with her today showing her. But it is just a different world. I am grateful to see it.

I am starting to miss home a bit, but I do not think India has showed me all that it has to show me yet. I have more to see and more to learn. So the journey will continue. I have decided to leave a day earlier than I planned on. I like the pace of life here but I think I will be ready to move on in 3 more days and I want to leave enough time for Khajaraho, which I hear has incredible old temple ruins, which warrant 2 days at least. I am going to continue to relax and enjoy Orchha. There is the Durga Festival going on right now, there are drums that I can here now, and I just left the computer to see a ceremony that was taking place across the street. Lights and music and dancing all around, and it is really a cool atmosphere to be in. These girls were just showing me this beautiful circular pattern made with flower pedals that they had made on the ground with candles around it. So the night is calling. Until next time...